All Lacquered Up

When people find out I’m a nail tech, the first question they usually ask me is “What’s your favorite nail polish?”  It’s a good question since there are scads of different brands on the market to choose from, and the quality between brands can vary greatly. 

As a nail tech, polish is my mainstay.  Almost all of my clients walk out the door with polish of some kind on their nails.  It’s the one product that I must have in quantity, and the one thing I can’t live without. 

So when I look for a polish to put on my shelf for client use, I look for four different traits; Application, Wearability, Affordability, and Selection.

1. Application – Can the polish be applied in 2 thin coats with complete coverage and without streaks?  Does the brush hold enough polish so that one dip in the bottle will cover the nail?  Does the brush fan out so that the polish can be properly applied to the nail in three strokes?

2. Wearability – When applied properly, with  good quality base and top coats, how long before the polish begins to chip when worn on the natural nail?

3. Affordability – Will I have to sell my children into slavery to be able to afford a good selection of polish colors?

4. Selection – Does the brand have a lot of different colors with a decent variety of finishes (cream, glitter, shimmer, frost, etc.)?

Until recently I hadn’t found a brand that scored well in all four categories.  I had a few favorites, but all fell flat in at least one area.  So today I’ll share my top picks with you, what I love and hate about each of them, and I’ll tell you which one I think will be pushing all of the other brands off my shelf.

First off, Sally Hansen doesn’t even make my list.  Every time I go through my favorites, I get asked “But isn’t Sally Hansen ok too?”  The short answer is no, it’s not.  Don’t get me wrong, it serves a purpose.  If you need a cheap polish to match a dress that you only wear once or twice a year, and you don’t care if it chips before the party’s over, then run to Walgreens and pick up a bottle of Sally.  There are a ton of colors available, but you may need a few coats for complete color coverage, and it will likely be chipped before the  end of the night. 

Instead, if you want something inexpensive with a little more wearability, try Finger Paints.  You can pick them up at Sally’s Beauty Supply.  They cost a little more than Sally Hansen, but are still quite affordable.  They also have a great color selection, apply nicely, and will wear for a day or two longer than cheaper polishes.  I like this brand, and have a few of them on my shelf.  It’s not a professional quality polish, but it’s a great alternative if you don’t want to have to run to a salon to pick up a bottle.

Working my way up, the next on my list is China Glaze.  This brand scores high on the affordability scale at about $5 a bottle.  It is a professional brand, albeit a low quality one, and you can purchase it at many salons as well as Sally Beauty.  They have a great color selection and seasonal releases to expand the palette of choices.  However, China Glaze scores low on my list for application and wearability.  The brushes are not as easy to work with as I’d like, and some colors aren’t pigmented enough to provide complete, streak-free coverage in two coats.  You’ll also probably start seeing chips appear around two days after your manicure.

Ranking in next is Color Club.  When I first started using Color Club polishes, I hated them.  However, it turns out that the bottles I was using were old, gloopy, and generally disgusting.  A newer bottle has great application and coverage.  They’re also extremely affordable, and are typically a little cheaper to buy than China Glaze.  The downside to Color Club is that you have to purchase it in a salon, and it can be difficult to find one that carries the brand.  It also doesn’t score very high on the wearability meter, and you can expect your polish to start chipping a day or two after application.

OPI is the first polish to score in as one of my favorite brands of polish.  While OPI polishes are more expensive than the previous brands listed, they’re worth every penny.  They’re highly pigmented and therefore provide excellent coverage.  They have a ton of colors to choose from, as well as frequent releases of limited edition colors that are usually trendy and fabulous.  OPI wears well on the natural nail, and you can typically get five days to a week out of your polish before you’ll need to repaint.  The one thing I hate about this brand however, is the one thing most people love about it; so feel free to take my opinion with a grain of salt…  I hate the wide brush that comes standard in the full size bottles of OPI.  I know, I know, I’m weird… But you see, my problem is this: I do a lot of manicures on kids and smaller adults.  I find that it’s nearly impossible to paint a tiny pinkie nail without making a mess using an OPI brush, and don’t even ask me about painting pinkie toes for a pedicure with it (it makes me swear every time).  It’s so bad, it’s almost a deal breaker for me, but you might love the brush, so by all means, give it a try and find out!

Until very recently, CND ranked in as my all time favorite.  It scores low on the affordability scale, topping out between $9 – $11 a bottle, but for the standard colors that you wear all of the time, it’s well worth the price.  CND polishes are so highly pigmented that most can be applied in one coat, with complete coverage and no streaking.  That means it dries quicker, and you’ll also get more applications out of a bottle; so in the long run the price becomes comparable to the cheaper polishes.  It also wears like iron, and unless you’re really hard on your nails, should last about a week before it starts to chip off.  Now, a few years ago CND made an innovation in nail polishes, and introduced a line called Color and Effects.  What it is, is a line of about fifty creamy polish colors, and a line of about fifteen top coats that add sparkle, glitter, or frost effects to the colors.  The color is applied first and then the effects, and the many combinations between the two give you an almost unlimited range of looks for your nails.  Really cool, right?   The only gripe I have with CND is that they need more colors!!!!  Most of the colors they offer fall into the range of reds and peaches, and less than ten fall into a non-standard color range (yellows, greens, blues, etc.).  That’s fine for a more sedate crowd, but again, I do nails on a lot of kids, and they all want weird colors in bright shades.  If CND expanded their line, I’d marry them and devote myself to their polish babies, but until they offer a range of colors that satisfies all of my clients, I have to look elsewhere to fill that gap.

Now we’ve come to my top pick, and it’s a brand that I didn’t even know existed until a couple of months ago.  The more familiar I become with it though, the more I’m falling in love…

Zoya is my all around top polish pick.  This brand, so far, has gotten top marks in all of my fields.  At $7 a bottle (*recently increased to $8), the price falls solidly in the middle of those listed above.  The quality, however, compares to OPI and CND, which makes the price tag even more impressive.  I’ve heard complaints that the brush is too small, and it is a little on the small side.  Yet, the quality of the brush is so high that I am able to cover even a large thumbnail with one bottle dip, and the bristles spread out nicely when touched to the nail, making a three stroke application a snap even with the smaller size.  The polish itself is highly pigmented, and covers beautifully with two thin coats, leaving no streaks or blotches behind.  They also have an amazing selection of colors and finishes, with a great color spoon program that lets you try before you buy if you’re not sure that a color is right for you.

That leaves wearability as the only category that is yet undecided for Zoya and me, but that’s merely because I haven’t had adequate time to really judge how it performs under different circumstances.  So far my results have been good though, and I’m hopeful that when used on a properly prepared natural nail, it will wear at least as well as OPI.  All in all, I’m ready to start clearing out my other polishes (except for a few favorites) to make room for more Zoya colors.

Zoya is available online (their web store has terrific customer service and shipping times), or at select salons.  Give it a try, if you don’t like the polish you’re welcome to send it to me!

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer!

Hugs,

Practice Makes Perfect

I’ve had a few people ask me about how I practice enhancement application and nail art, since I’m always posting on Facebook that I’m practicing.  I practice a lot!  School can only teach you so much, the only way to perfect your technique is to do it over and over, and then do it some more.  Since the creepy practice hands and fingers available for the aspiring nail artist are much more trouble than they’re worth, I’ve developed my own method for creating practice nails, and today I’ll show you what I use.

Now I’m sure that I didn’t come up with this on my own.  When I started doing nails awhile back, I probably saw something similar online, but time has erased the memory of where I got the idea.  I have learned that some products work better than others though, at least for me…

The first thing you’re going to want to do is run to your local Sally’s Beauty Supply and get some cuticle sticks (doesn’t matter what brand), some nail glue (whatever’s on clearance), and some nail tips.  The nail tips are important!  I only buy Terrific Tips - Enchanted Nights for this.  They’re the perfect length, are inexpensive, and don’t require any modification.  This is the only thing I use these tips for!  They’re not good tips for gluing onto your nail!

 

Take a cuticle stick and cut it in half.  I have a pair of surgical scissors that can cut through bone that I use for this, but a pair of wire cutters or any heavy duty scissors will work too.

 

 

 

 

Next, place a dab of glue on the back of the tip, and one on the uncut side of your nail stick, then glue them together.  Be sure to dab both surfaces, or it won’t bond right and when you’re filing your practice nail the tip will go flying off in an unknown direction, never to be seen again. 

Hold together for about 10 seconds, and then set aside to cure for an hour before using.

 

I purchased a block of floral foam at my local craft store, and poked 25 holes in one side of it to store sticks while they’re drying.  That way they don’t get bumped, and ruin a pretty polish job.

I also make sure I get the most use out of my sticks.  As you can guess, it takes a while to make up a batch (I usually do it while watching TV, it takes about an hour to make 50), so you’ll want to be sure to get as much use as you can out of each one.  First, I practice acrylic or UV gel application on a tip, and then I use them to practice nail art. 

If I’m happy with my final creation, I just pop the stick into a pretty little bucket filled with shiny pebbles for display.  My clients can then handle it, take a close look, and even hold it up to their own nails if they like.

You, of course, can develop your own practice tips that work well for you.  Personally I tried cheaper sticks (like tooth picks) and became frustrated when they didn’t hold up to filing.  I’ve tried other tips that were too long for most of my purposes, and needed too much modification.  I decided that it was better to spend a little more and save a lot of time.

Hopefully though, I’ve given a couple of aspiring nail techs a few good ideas! 

Hugs,

DIY Nails

I have no problem with people doing their own nails.  I started down the path to become a licensed nail tech because I did my own nails, then my daughters, and then my friends nails too.  If you’re going to take the plunge and try to do your own acrylics though, do yourself a favor and read up on the subject before you get started. 

Also, if you’re standing in front of the DIY acrylic products at the local beauty store, and a nail tech approaches you  offering to answer any questions you might have…  Take them up on the offer.  God, or the fates, dropped them in front of you for a reason, utilize the knowledge they’re willing to share!

Of course there’s a story behind this little nugget of advice, and I’ll share it with you mostly for entertainment sake, but you might also learn a thing or two in the process…

After dropping my daughter off at school this morning, I decided to run to Sally’s Beauty because I had some time, and some money burning a hole in my pocket.  They recently started carrying a new nail art line that has these gorgeous micro glitters, and I need to have them all.  I NEED them, I tell you! 

Why no, I don’t have a problem, why do you ask?

I walked in, gave a little wave to the lady working the register (they know me there and have stopped asking if I need assistance; same with the girls who work at the local professional beauty supply store. No, that is not more evidence that I have a problem thankyouverymuch), and headed down the aisle to go stand in front of the pretty display of sparkling glitters.  As I made my way there, I passed two women standing in front of the do it yourself acrylic products having a conversation I couldn’t help but overhear.

Lady #1 “Don’t I need to have some sort of primer?”

Lady #2 “No.”

Lady #1 “But it says here on the back of the box that I need primer.”

Lady #2 “They just want you to buy more stuff.  All you need to do is wipe your nail with acetone.”

I raised my eyebrows at that little bit of misinformation, and snuck a glance (while pretending to be concentrating intently on the glitters displayed in front me me; oh, the precious…) to see the box of ASP L&P acrylics she was holding.  I’m familiar with the brand, it’s what I used before I was able to purchase professional quality products.

Lady #1 “I’m not sure, it says primer, not acetone.”

Lady #2, pulling a bottle of spray on nail sanitizer from the shelf, “This is what they want you to buy, and it’s $12.  Just use the acetone, it does the same thing.”

I’m biting my lip now, reminding myself that I wasn’t invited into the conversation, trying to concentrate on the precious; the sweet, sweet precious…  Um, I mean glitter.

Lady #1 “If I don’t use the right thing, what will happen?”

Lady #2 “Nothing really, your nails might not stay on as long, but that’s all.”

Lady #1 “Well, I need them to last through the wedding on Saturday.”

Lady #2 pulls a 100 grit padded file off the shelf and hands it to Lady #1 “Then just rough up your nails with this first, and the acrylic will stick better.”

I cringe, realizing that I need to intervene now or Lady #1 is going to do some serious damage to her nail plate.  I take a deep breath, put on an ever-so-helpful smile, and turn to the ladies…

Me “Excuse me, I hate to intrude, but I couldn’t help but overhear.  I’m a nail tech, could I perhaps answer some questions for you?”

Lady #2 rolls her eyes and turns her back on me.

Lady #1 “Well, I want to do my nails for a wedding I’m going to in Vegas this weekend.” pauses expectantly.

Me, smiling brightly, “Oh, how fun!”

Lady #1 “The box says I need to have primer, but my friend--who used to do her own nails-- says acetone will work?”

Me “Acetone and primer aren’t the same thing.  You should wipe your nails with acetone or a nail dehydrant before putting the acrylic on, but you also need a primer to help the product stick to your nail plate.”

Lady #2 snorts.

Here I pause to find the correct bottle on the shelf, the one that actually contains primer, and hand it to Lady #1. 

Me, gesturing to the coarse file she’s holding in her hand, “Also, that file is much too rough to use on your natural nail.  You could end up filing completely through your nail without even realizing it.  Use a buffer block instead.”  I say pointing to the light grit blocks on display.  “Use the coarse file, and a medium grit one as well, to shape the acrylic after it’s hardened on your nail.”

“Lady #1 adds up the cost of all the products she’ll need, “Wow, I could probably just go to a salon for the price of all of this.”

Lady #2 turns back to us and glares at me.  “That’s what she wants you to think so that you’ll pay her to do your nails instead.  That way she makes more money!”

Lady #1 scrutinizes me, now doubtful of my motivation for helping her.  “What will happen if I don’t use primer?”

Me “With that brand of acrylic, your enhancements will start to lift as soon as you begin filing them.  They probably won’t last more than a couple of days.” I tell her honestly.  “Are you doing them yourself or is your friend applying them?” I ask, nodding toward Lady #2.

Lady #1 suspiciously, “I’m going to do them myself tonight.”

Me “Then you should probably be aware that it’s hard to do your own nails.  It usually takes me two hours to get them shaped right when I do my own, and I do them all the time.  The first time I did them, it took me five hours, and they popped off the next day because I didn’t apply them correctly.  You might be better off if you can find someone who will help you with your dominant hand.”

Lady #2 “Or pay you to do them, right?  See, I knew it!”

"Me “No, I don’t have any openings in my calendar until next week.  I was thinking maybe you should help her, since you seem to have so much experience doing nails.”

I admit, the last bit was said a little snarkliy because I’d had just about enough of Lady #2.

Me, turning back to the beautiful, sparkly glitters… Oh the precious, my precious…  “Anyway, I just didn’t want you to hurt yourself with that file.  That’s a pain that takes months to heal.  Have fun in Vegas!”

As I started plucking my glitter choices off the display, I watch Lady #1&2 bend their heads together whispering furiously.

Lady #2 “…don’t even know she’s actually a nail tech…”

Lady #1 “…seemed to know what she was talking about…”

Lady #2 “… want to spend that much?… …know what I’m doing…”

And to my great dismay, I watched Lady #1 put the primer, the buffer, and all but the coarse file back on the shelf.

As I stood in line behind them at the checkout, she gushed about how much money she was saving over going to a salon.  I wonder if she’ll be so exuberant tomorrow morning, after she’s done irreparable damage to her nail plate, has had to run back to Sally’s at least once for a medium/fine grit file (because you can’t smooth acrylics with a coarse file), and has lumpy enhancements that are already half lifted off her nails. 

As they left the store I gave a smile, a wave, and a parting shot; “Have fun filing tonight!”  Only to have the cashier (a retired, and extremely experienced, cosmetologist), burst out laughing.  Apparently she’d also tried to offer a helping hand and was rebuffed before I got there.

*sigh* Oh well, what can you do…

At least I have my precious…

Hugs,

Tips or Forms?

Have you ever gotten nail enhancements, only to have them hurt for a day or two afterwards?  Well then read on because this post is for you!

There are two different ways to create an extended free edge when applying enhancements: Tips or Forms.  Glue on nail tips are familiar to almost everyone, while very few people are familiar with nail forms and the resulting sculpted tips.  Both can work well depending on your nail type, when applied properly…

If you’ve been reading this blog for any length of time, you’re probably catching on to that phrase by now…  Applied Properly.  It’s what makes or breaks any great nail service.

Today we’re going to discuss tips and forms, the differences between the two, and proper application, so that when you go to get your nails done, you know what to look for.

A nail tip is a piece of molded plastic that has a shallow well where it’s glued onto your nail plate.  Pictured to the left are two different kinds of tips.  One has a full well that covers 1/3 of the nail plate, the other has a short well that only covers 1/8 of an inch along the free edge.

Nail tips need to be sized properly to fit your natural nail, and this is where problems often arise.  No tip should ever be pulled out of a box, sized against your nail, and glued on.  They’re not one size fits all, and each one needs to be altered for a custom fit.

A good nail tech will check the fit of a tip to ensure it fits precisely from side-wall to side-wall on your nail (the side walls are the ridges of skin that run along the sides of your nail plate).  If you fall between two of the available sizes (which, with only ten sizes available, most of the population seems to), she will select the larger size, and file the edges of the tip down to create a perfect fit.  She will then thin out the well area of the tip with a file or buffer, before gluing it onto your nail plate.

You should never have gobs of glue squeezing out from under and around the tip, and you should never feel an intense pressure on your nail plate after the tip has been glued on.

Most nail tips have a pretty intense curvature to them, they’re typically much more rounded than the average nail plate.  This causes a pressure point between the tip and your nail.  The tip is trying to pull your nail to match its curve, and your nail plate, being firmly attached to your nail bed, doesn’t want to go.  If you’ve ever seen a spot like this: Onycholysis, on your nail after having your enhancements removed...  Well, that’s where the tip won the battle.  The pressure between tip and nail can result in a slow, painful separation of your nail plate from the nail bed underneath.  This is why many people have sore fingertips for awhile after having enhancements applied. 

Thinning the well area by filing it down, helps to give the tip more flexibility, and releases some of the pressure on your nail plate.  Furthermore, a tip should be carefully filed after application, to make it blend seamlessly with your natural nail.  This allows an even greater release of pressure from the tip, and it also keeps the tip from creating a weak point in the enhancement (have you ever noticed that your enhancements tend to break where the tip is attached to your nail?).

If you have exceptionally large or flat nails, then tips are not for you because no amount of filing or beveling will allow them to fit properly.  You’ll want to find a nail technician who is willing to sculpt your enhancements on nail forms instead.

Nail forms are, in essence, big stickers.  They do make reusable ones, but most techs have switched to the more convenient disposable forms.

Shown to the left are two different types of nail forms.  The gold one is called a horseshoe (I only use these for masking off skin in messy nail art), and the silver is a CND performance form.  This is just a small sample of the many types of forms out there, and each nail tech has their own favorites.  No one form is better than any other, it all depends on what the nail tech is most comfortable and familiar with.

To use a form, the nails are prepped for enhancements, then the form is slipped under the free edge of the natural nail, and wrapped back along the finger.  The nails should be cleaned after the forms are applied to remove any oils that may have transferred from the techs skin onto your nail plate.

The enhancement product is then placed onto the form to create a new, longer free edge.

The trickiest thing about using a form is the placement.  It must be placed snugly under the free edge, leaving minimal gaps, or preferably none at all.  It takes some practice, but once a tech masters it, using a form is a lot quicker and easier than using a tip (there’s no filing to custom fit the tip to the nail, and then blending to remove the seam). 

Additionally, there’s no pressure on the nail plate with this method.  The enhancement molds itself to the natural shape of your nail, instead of pulling at your nail plate to get it to conform to the contour of a tip.  This results in a safer, more comfortable and natural feeling enhancement.

Some people believe that tips are stronger than sculpted enhancements because there’s an underlying structure under the free edge.  However, that is completely false, and in fact, the opposite is true instead.  Enhancement products are much stronger than the material used to make tips, and by gluing a tip onto the nail plate, you’re actually creating a stress point that will crack and break more easily than the enhancement material would on its own.

Personally, I use forms on just about everyone who sits at my table for enhancements.  Having worn both types, I can say from experience that sculpted enhancements are much more comfortable.  Though when a manicurist properly applies tips, they’re not too bad either.  If given a choice though, I’ll always choose the sculpted nails.

Hugs,

Enhancements-The More You Know

Nail technicians don’t like to call them fake nails anymore.  Most techs will call them enhancements because all we’re really doing is making what you have a little better…  Enhancing your nails.  We might be making them thicker (so you can’t bite), more durable (so they don’t break so easily), or disguising a nail condition that embarrasses you.  For the most part though, we’re building off a foundation of your natural nails, and there’s nothing fake about that.

Enhancements come in a few different varieties that can be applied in various ways.  Today, I’m going to run you through the different types of enhancements, and some of the things to watch out for when you go to a salon.  Why is it important for you to know these things?  Because the health of your hands and nails effects the health of your body.  Also, the health of your pocket book is pretty important too, and knowing the basics can keep you from spending money on a falsely advertised service.

The first thing you should know is that all enhancement products are made from an acrylic compound.  So no matter what type of you’re putting on your nails, it’s all produced from the same thing, and has the same basic chemical make-up.  This is very important if you have sensitivities to enhancement products.  Depending on the root of your sensitivity, a gel product may not work any better for you than a liquid and powder.  If you want to give it a try anyway, you should be aware that you could still experience an averse reaction.  You should also have a nail tech who is aware of your sensitivities, and will be meticulous in their application by making sure none of the product touches your skin which is far more sensitive than your nail plate.

Now, there are three types of enhancement processes: Nail Wraps, Liquid and Powder (often called Acrylic Enhancements), and UV Gels.  That’s it, that’s all there is, anything else is just a new name for one of those three services, created only for the purpose of increasing revenue.  I want to emphasize that, because a lot of NSS salons out there have exotic names for expensive enhancement services, and the only thing you’re getting for the extra money is a fancy name.  So don’t be fooled by ‘Solar Enhancements’ or ‘Diamond Nails’ because a rose by any other name, is still a rose.

The first type of enhancement we’re going to talk about is a Fabric Wrap.  Not many people use wraps for enhancements anymore, because overall it’s not a very strong or durable product.  A fabric wrap is a great way to repair a cracked or split nail until it grows out though.

Fabric wraps get their name from a piece of fabric that’s adhered to the nail during application.  The fabric used can be fiberglass, silk, or linen, and it’s what gives the enhancement strength.  Once the fabric is placed on the nail, a resin is applied over it, and sprayed with an activator to help it cure and harden.  The resin should be applied two or three times, before being filed and buffed to a smooth finish.

Like I mentioned above, wraps are a great way to repair a cracked or split nail, and work really well to strengthen natural nails that are prone to breaking, but they’re not very durable when applied as an enhancement to extend the free edge of the nail.  However, if you only plan on wearing your long nails a few days, for a wedding, prom, or other special occasion, it’s a great temporary enhancement product that removes easily.

Next up are Liquid and Powder enhancements, or what most people commonly call ‘Acrylic Nails.’  I love liquid and powder enhancements.  They’re strong yet flexible, and perfectly suited for any nail type, which make them a personal favorite.

These enhancements are created when a polymer powder and a liquid monomer are combined to create an acrylic compound that is placed on the nail and allowed to cure.  After all of the enhancements have hardened, they are filed and buffed to a smooth finish. 

Liquid and powder nails are thicker than fabric wraps, but the added thickness is what gives them their superior strength, and prevents them from cracking and breaking.  Properly maintained enhancements (apply Solar Oil at least once a day) will stay flexible and resist chipping. 

These enhancements can stay on the nail for quite a long time if a quality product is used in the application, home maintenance is performed, and they are rebalanced every two to three weeks.  Removal is easily achieved by soaking the nails in product remover, but it can take upwards of an hour to completely soak off the enhancements.

Last on our list are UV Gel enhancements.  UV Gels are beautifully clear, shiny enhancements, that mimic the appearance of natural nails, especially when a pink and white (permanent French) application is performed.

However, UV Gels are more rigid, and not as strong as liquid and powder enhancements.  This can create some problems if applied to thin or weak nails, and they can often crack (sometimes through the nail plate) if the wearer has unsuitable nails and an active lifestyle.  Before applying UV Gel enhancements, your nail tech should talk to you about your nail type and lifestyle habits to ensure that they are a good fit for you, and to prevent possible injury to your nails.

To create these enhancements, your nail tech will brush a thick gel onto your nail plate, and then cure it under a UV light.  This is repeated a few times to build the thickness of the enhancement.  The UV lamps used for curing are extremely safe for use, as the UV emitted for the entire service is the equivalent of spending less than four minutes in the sun.

With proper maintenance (oil, oil, oil) and regular rebalances, UV Gel enhancements can be worn for an indeterminate amount of time.  Removal of the product, however, requires that it be filed and buffed off the nail; which, if done incorrectly can cause significant damage to the nail plate.  Please be sure your nail tech is experienced in gel removal before having them taken off.

So those are the three types of enhancements.  However, I’ve seen many salons in my area that charge extra for a gel service, and then apply liquid and powder nails with only a gel top coat.  While a gel top coat should be an additional charge in a liquid and powder service, it is not the same as having a full set of UV Gel enhancements applied.  To protect your bank account, please know what you’re getting before the service starts, and make sure you’re getting what you’re paying for.

Additionally, there are many things that can be added to these enhancement applications for an additional charge.  RockStar nails have glitter added into the product, for a permanent sparkle on your fingers and toes.  Fimo canes and other goodies can be encased inside the enhancements for beautiful nail art that lasts for weeks.  These add-ins shouldn’t be confused with the type of enhancement you’re getting though.  So be a smart consumer and know what you’re getting before you commit to paying for it.

Hugs,

Healthy Natural Nails

I’ve had a few people ask me to do a post on how to obtain, and care for, healthy natural nails.  After all, that’s what we strive for, right?  Who in their right mind would wear enhancements if their natural nails were healthy, strong, and beautiful?

The good news is that anyone can have gorgeous nails with just a tiny bit of effort!

The first step on the road to healthy nails, is a healthy body.  I know, I know… It sounds so cliché, but it’s true.  Nail cells are manufactured in the same manner as the rest of your body’s cells, if you don’t provide your body with the fuel it needs to build those cells, then it can’t create them properly.  So nourish your body with a healthy diet, and it will reflect in more than your nails; you’ll also get healthy hair, skin, and overall body health in the process!

A good daily beauty regimen is the next step.  Cuticle oil (also called nail oil or penetrating oil) is a must, at least once a day, every day!  Other oils cannot take the place of products made specifically for your nails.  The reason for this is because the pores in your nails are very small.  In order for an oil to penetrate the nail plate deeply enough for it to do any good, it has to have special carriers to get the nutrients deep down inside.  Even oils made for skin, like Vitamin E oil, can’t do the job on their own, they need help to be able to get past the surface of the nail plate.

Let’s look at it this way…  I have a Sumo wrestler standing on my front porch, and he wants to come into my house, but the door is way too small for him.  I can push and pull him all I want, but he’s not coming in without some major help.  So, to help him through, I get a tub of butter, cover him with it, and give him a little shove. *POP* With barely any effort at all, he’s through the door and in my living room. 

Now, the Sumo wrestle is the Vitamin E, the door is a pore on your nail plate, and the butter is the carrier.  Get the picture?

Most companies use jojoba oil as their carrier, and honestly I’m unsure if there’s an adequate substitute out there.  CND’s Solar Oil contains jojoba, along with Vit E and other beneficial oils.  In my opinion it is the best on the market for nourishing your nails, and you’ll see results within a week of regular use.

The reason using cuticle oil is so important for your nails is twofold.  One: it keeps them moisturized and flexible, which prevents chipping, tearing, and flaking.  Two: it fills the pores, which in turn keeps the bad stuff out, like water (which can actually dry your nails), dirt, and contaminates.

Lotion is also important in your daily regimen, especially if you put your hands in water a lot during the day.  Again, use good quality lotions made specifically for your hands.  CND’s Sentsations, and Qtica Smart Spa lotions are my favorites.  Keep a bottle by the sink so you remember to use it as soon as you’ve finished drying your hands.  Regular application will keep your hands smooth, and your nails healthy.

This next one always tends to surprise people, but…  Keep your nails polished!  Polish is actually good for your nails, it protects them, and keeps dirt, water, and contaminates from penetrating your nail plate.  It also helps to strengthen your nails and keep them from chipping and flaking.  So keep the pinkies polished.  You don’t have to use a color if you prefer a natural look.  A clear top coat every few days will do the trick, and if you don’t like that glossy look, there are some great matte top coats made by China Glaze, Orly, and CND that will give you the strength without the shine.

Next, you need to recognize and understand the issues with your nails, then address them individually.

If your nails are thin, flimsy, and tend to fold before they crack or break, then you should use a nail strengthener as a base coat under your polish.

If your nails are rigid and prone to chipping and breaking along the free edge, then oil, oil, and oil some more.  DO NOT use nail strengtheners or hardeners!  Strengtheners are designed to make nails more rigid, already rigid nails will quickly become brittle and more prone to breakage.  So these types of products will only increase the problems you’re experiencing.  Instead, use penetrating oils and lotions religiously to increase the flexibility in your nails, and eliminate chipping and cracking.

If your nails tend to flake and peel, use cuticle oil and lotions to increase the flexibility in your nail plate.  Also, be very careful when filing and clipping your nails.  Invest in a glass nail file, which burnishes and seals the free edge while filing to prevent flaking.  If you prefer an emery board, only use the fine side of the file, and don’t see-saw back and forth on your nail.  File from the outside edges in towards the center, in a slow, gentle motion.  Keep your nails polished, as it will greatly reduce flaking, and if you must clip your nails, be sure to gently file them after you’ve clipped.  Clipping causes microscopic fractures along the free edge of the nail plate (as does aggressive filing), which eventually expands into a flake or split, so if you can avoid it, please do.

Last but not least, go get a manicure!  We like to see you at our table every two weeks, but if you can’t swing that we’ll settle for once a month.  Talk your nail tech about your problems and concerns, we can help you out.  Not only that, but we have a wide range of intensive treatments at our disposal that you cannot get at the local Wal-Mart or Sally’s.

Plus, it feels really, really good!

Now when I say manicure, I don’t mean at your local Not Safe Salon.  If you’re paying less than $15 for a manicure, you might want to take a look around the salon and ask yourself if it meets standards.  If not, it’s time to start looking for a new nail tech.  If you’re not sure, talk to me, I can tell you what to look for, and if necessary put you in touch with some awesome techs in your area.

If you have any questions about your nail problems, or need help finding quality products for your nails, leave a comment here, talk to me on facebook, or hit me up on twitter.  I’d be happy to help you achieve those gorgeous hands you’ve been dreaming of!

Hugs,

P.S. Special thanks To Holly, who taught me so many things about nail products, and gave me the Sumo wrestler analogy way back in nail school.

Nail Structure and Terminology

After my last post, my proof reader (AKA my husband John) told me that I needed a reference chart, or a glossary, or something.  You see, I’m kind of a stickler about using correct terminology, because to do anything else just confuses life later on.

So this is just a boring, educational post that you can feel free to skip.  I’m sure I’ll be referring to it later on though, and if I ever use a term you’re unsure of, just come on back here and look it up.

To the left is a diagram I made in nail school to study for a test.  I think it will work well for our purposes today.  You can click on it to bring up a larger version if you’d like (as you can any of the images I post on the blog).  Hopefully, it will help you locate the structures I’m talking about on your own nail.

Free Edge:  This is the part of the nail that extends over the tip of the finger or toe. Or, as in my case, gets chewed up by nail biters.

Nail Plate: This is what most people would call the “nail.”  It’s a plate of hardened keratin that covers the nail bed on the end of your finger.

Cuticle: Is a film of dead tissue that covers the nail plate.  It should not be confused with the living tissue of the eponychium.  Cuticle creates a seal between the nail plate and the surrounding tissue, and prevents foreign materials and microorganisms from entering and causing illness or injury.

Eponychium: Is a ridge of  living skin at the base of the nail plate.  The eponychium should never be cut or trimmed, just gently pushed back. 

Hyponychium: This is the thickened skin between the fingertip and the free edge of the nail.  This ridge of skin creates a protective barrier that prevents foreign materials and pathogens from entering and infecting the nail bed.

Nail Bed: This is the tissue directly under the nail plate.  It has a rich blood supply, which gives it a pinkish color, and is very sensitive due to the large number of nerves attached to it.

Perionychium: Is the skin that touches, overlaps, and surrounds the nail.

Nail Grooves: Are the tracks on either side of the nail, that the nail plate moves on as it grows.

Mantle: Is a pocket at the base of the nail that holds the matrix.

Matrix: is a group of cells that create the nail plate.  You can see a little bit of the matrix under some of your nails.  The half moons that are visible on the thumbs of most people (also called the lunula), are comprised of matrix cells.  An injury to the matrix can affect nail growth in many ways, cause the nail to grow in an abnormal way, or it can slow growth or stop it all together.  The overall health of your nails, begins in the matrix!

So that’s my little lesson today. There won’t be a test, but we may refer back to this information from time to time.

Now you know… 

Hugs,

Nail Prep

Shhh, don’t tell anyone, but I’m going to let you in on a few secrets.  You don’t need me to polish your nails.  Shhh!!!!!!  Keep your voice down or they’ll kick me out of the awesome nail tech club!!!

I think most people already know that they don’t have to pay someone to paint their nails, you can easily do it at home.  Professional paint jobs tend to last a little longer, and look a little neater, but probably not enough to justify the price for most women. 

Now, I’m a realistic professional.  I became interested in nails because of my desire to save some money doing my own.  I don’t really expect you to lavish me with cash for something I wasn’t willing to spend money on not so long ago.  Come to me when you want to be pampered with pretty smelling soaks, scrubs, masques, and massages, then fee free to paint your nails on your own between salon visits.  I promise I won’t cry or yell. 

On and off I’ll be posting some tutorials here to help you spruce up your hands and feet between mani’s and pedi’s, and to help you keep a few dollars in your pocket.  However, the most important part of any thing you do is preparation, and your nails are no exception.  So today we’ll go over the basics of nail prep, which is the foundation of any good nail service.  If you want your polish to last longer than it usually would, nail prep is the key.

The first thing you need to do is gather your supplies.

You will need:

• Nail Polish Remover
• Cuticle Sticks, or a Cuticle Pusher
• Cuticle Nippers
• Nail Wipes or Cosmetic Pads (no cotton balls!)
• Cuticle Remover
• Cuticle Oil
• Alcohol or Nail Dehydrator

Edit: I’ve been informed by my proof reader (AKA my husband John) that I need to define a term I use a lot within this post…  The Nail Plate.  The nail plate is just a technical way of saying fingernail.  The nail plate is the hard material (keratin) that is found on your fingertip (also referred to as the nail bed).

Step One: Remove Old Polish

Use nail polish remover and nail wipes to take off any old polish remaining on your nails.  Do not use cotton balls!  Spend the extra dollar and get something that won’t leave little fibers all over your nails.  No matter how much time you spend picking them off, you won’t get them all, and they will mar your paint job later on.

For polishes that are stubborn, like reds, blacks, and glitters, soak a nail wipe thoroughly, and hold it to your nail for a minute or so before wiping the polish away.  If a little pigment remains, repeat with a clean pad soaked in remover.

You can file your nails now if necessary, but do not buff the nail plate, not even if you have ridges on your nails (instead use a good quality ridge filler like Ridge Out by CND).  Buffing removes layers of your nail, and can thin and damage your nail plate.  Occasionally a very light buffing is necessary, but should be left to a qualified nail technician.  Always use the fine side of an emery board to file your nails, never the coarse side, and file from the outside of the nail towards the center; don’t see-saw back and forth.  This will prevent your nail from flaking and splitting later on.

Step Two: Remove Cuticle

Before we get started on this step, I want to clear something up.  Cuticle is NOT the band of tissue at the base of your nail.  That is called the eponychium, and is living tissue that should be treated with care.  Cuticle is a film of dead tissue that grows out from under the eponychium to cover the nail plate.  Cuticle can become detached from the nail plate, and will cause your polish to lift and peel, so removing it is an important step if you want your polish to last.

You can soak your nails in a bit of warm soapy water to make this step a little easier.  However, don’t soak for more than three minutes please.  If you do, the water will soak into your nails, and cause your nail plate to expand.  When it contracts a few hours after you’ve polished your nails, your pretty polish will begin to chip and crack.  So set a timer if you need to, or keep a close eye on the clock. 

Now, take your cuticle remover and place a dollop at the base of each of your nails.  Then, spread it across your entire nail with your cuticle stick.

Let it sit for as long as the manufacturer recommends, and then begin to scrape the dead tissue off your nail plate with your cuticle stick.

(sorry for the blurry pic, I haven’t figured out my camera’s timer yet)

While you’re scraping off the dead tissue, very gently push the eponychium back if necessary.  My eponychium will grow over my nail if I let it, while my husband’s always stays in a nice little line at the bottom of his nails.  If yours is like his, leave it alone; if it’s like mine, be as gentle as you can to avoid damaging the nail matrix which is located directly underneath that area.

Once you have removed your cuticle, and pushed back your eponychium, wash your hands to remove the cuticle remover.  This is important as many removers have a mild acid in them that will continue to eat at your nail if not washed off.  Dry your hands with a soft towel, and while you’re drying use the towel to gently push against your eponychium to set it into place.

Use the cuticle nippers to nip off any remaining cuticle tissue on your nail plate.  Do not cut your eponychium!  It’s living tissue, and can bleed and become infected, which could damage your nail matrix.  Feel free to skip the nipping if it’s not necessary, or your hands are not steady.

Step Three: Apply Cuticle Oil.

I highly recommend CND’s Solar Oil as a top quality cuticle oil.  This stuff is like liquid gold for your nails and should be applied daily, right over polish or enhancements, to strengthen and condition your nails and surrounding skin.  Daily oil is really the key to beautiful, healthy nails and skin!

If you can’t get your hands on Solar Oil, other oils are available at Sally’s or your local make-up counter, and will work, though not as good.

Apply the oil to the base of your nail, being sure to cover the eponychium.  Massage it into your nails and surrounding skin, and then let it sit for a minute before moving onto the next step.

Step Four: Clean the Nail Plate

The last step is to clean and dehydrate the nail.  I know you just put oil on there, and it seems silly to take it back off, but the oil should have penetrated down into the nail by now, and we’re just taking off the little bit that’s left on top so that the polish has a nice clean surface to stick to.

Take your alcohol, or nail dehydrator if you have it on hand, wet a nail wipe with it, and scrub your nail.  Scrub hard; scrub like you’re trying to remove tar that your husband tracked onto your clean kitchen floor with his nasty work boots. 

You should now have a clean, slightly dull looking, fingernail that’s ready to be polished!

Step Five: Polish

A while back I made a quick video that will give you the basics on how to polish your nails.  Note: In this video I refer to the eponychium as the cuticle.  This is the first and last time you will hear or see me do this on my blog, as I don’t ever want you to confuse the two.  It’s an important distinction, and  you should know the difference.

I still recommend CND’s Sticky basecoat, and my all time favorite top coat is Seche Vite.  I’ve also added Zoya Polishes to my list of favorite colors.  You won’t be disappointed in any of those products!

Now go add some color to the world and pretty up those pinkies!

Hugs,

Non-Standard = Not Safe

Among nail techs they have a lot of names.  McNails is one of the more colorful; Chop Shops is one of the more accurate.  You know the places I’m talking about, they’re in every mall, have prices lower than a fast food restaurant, and air so thick with monomer vapor you get a high, or a headache, as soon as you walk in the door. 

You’ll never hear a good tech call them that though.  Those are the names we use in the break room, or on the industry forums.  For you, our clients, we call them Non-Standard Salons, or NSS, because to do otherwise would be unprofessional, and just not nice.

We hate those places though, and we can tell you’ve been to one as soon as we glimpse your fingers at our tables.  We crusade against them, making sure you understand the damage that has been done to your nail plate, and the potential harm they can cause.  Yet people still go, lured by the low cost of services, and the walk-in convenience.

I think at times when I talk to my clients about non-standard salons, their eyes gloss over, and I can’t help but wonder if the terminology is partly to blame.  What is non-standard, what does it mean? Non-standard prices?  Non-standard employees?  Perhaps all of us nail techs are just upset that they’re stealing our business, and the fuss is just a way to try and get you to pay higher prices for the same product.  What makes non-standard such a bad thing? 

Non-standard, as it applies to nail salons, means that the salon in question does not conform to industry (and sometimes even state) standards for service and sanitation. 

Sanitation is important, it’s what keeps you from getting sick.  How would you feel about a doctor who didn’t wash his hands? Would you return to a doctor who re-used tongue depressors on different patients?  No?  So why go to a nail salon that doesn’t wash and disinfect its tools, or uses the same nail file on ten or more people?

State and industry standards require that all reusable tools get scrubbed with soap and water, and then disinfected in a solution designed to kill any remaining microorganisms before they are used on another person.  Items that can’t be washed and soaked (files, wooden pushers, buffers, etc.) are to be thrown away after a single use.  So here, non-standard means dirty, unwashed, used tools, and microorganisms.  Sounds yummy, doesn’t it?

Now I can hear you saying, “But Anne, it’s just my nails.  How bad can it really be?”  The answer is bad… Really, really BAD.  When I say microorganisms, what I mean is contagious pathogens: bacteria, fungal spores, and viruses, all of which can live, multiply, and be transmitted through your hands and nails.  Does that sound extremely icky yet?  Just in case it doesn’t, let me continue…

The most common of these transmitted microorganisms is what people commonly refer to as a nail fungus or mold, but is actually a bacterial infection.  At the NSS they will tell you that it’s caused by moisture trapped under an enhancement, and they will tell you that they can treat it with an over the counter anti fungal treatment.  In reality, it’s an infection, spread by the use of dirty tools, that can only be properly treated by a doctor.  It might clear up on its own (depending on the strength of your immune system), or it could rage out of control without prescribed antibiotics.  If you develop dark brown, green, or black spots on your nails, please consult your physician.  Only he, or she, can tell you how serious the condition is, and prescribe the proper medications to alleviate it.

These types of nail infections are the most common problem found at an NSS, but not even close to the most dangerous.  As all nail students are currently learning in school:  In 2006 a salon in California transmitted a bacterial skin infection to over 100 clients through the use of contaminated foot spas.  This infection cased permanent scarring on the legs of most of the people infected, and even resulted in a few deaths.

That’s right, deaths…  From a pedicure…  We’re quickly progressing from gross to scary, and I’m not done yet…

I recently had a young friend come to me for enhancements.  While I sculpted some beautiful acrylics for her, she kept marveling over the fact that I wasn’t hurting her, which caused me to ask about her previous experiences with nail services.  She told me about going to the mall to have a manicure, and leaving the salon with her hands bleeding in several spots.  She believed it was normal, and in case you do too, let me clarify that it’s not!  You should never bleed during a nail service, and if a nail tech accidentally draws blood, all services should be stopped, the service area and tools should be cleaned and disinfected, and the cut should be cleaned and covered before the tech decides if he or she can proceed safely.  In this day and age, with blood borne pathogens like HIV and hepatitis C, is it even necessary to explain why?

So Non-Standard Salon is really just another way of saying Not Safe Salon, and now is the point where you have to ask yourself is it really worth it?  The money you save is money spent on disinfectant, and new files in a better salon.  It’s money invested in nail technicians who are certified to use an e-file safely, or forego it and instead use hand files to prevent harming your nail plate.  The time you spend making an appointment, because a better salon doesn’t take walk-ins, is time you can spend reassuring yourself that you made the right choice for your health, and knowing that the salon doesn’t have time for walk-ins because they’re booked solid with repeat customers who are totally satisfied with their healthy (non-bloody) hands, feet, and nails.

Now the next time you sit down at my table, and I see the rings of fire on your nails from where the nail tech at the local Not Safe Salon dug into your nail plate with their file, please understand that the friendly lecture I’m about to give you is not done out of a desire to pad my pockets with your money.  It’s because I care about you.  I care about your beautiful hands, your beautiful family, and your wonderful life.  I don’t want you to be a case file in a nail school text book.  I don’t want to add your story to my next cautionary tale.  You don’t have to come to me, but please, go some place where they’ll give you the care you deserve!

You only get one body, protect it as if your life depended on it!

Hugs,